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Home Works

by Ken Hoyt

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Furniture Vinaigrette

Are you toasty warm? Safe inside we all enjoy the advantages of central heating during this chilly time of year. But that same warmth doesn’t provide the spa-like benefits for your fine wood furniture.

Constant heat creates a dry atmosphere, which is far from the perfect environment for preserving wood. We preserve our skin with moisturizer, creating a barrier between the elements and us. Doing the same for your prized wood furnishings can add years of enjoyment.

This furniture vinaigrette is so pure you could use it to dress your salad, yet it’s also a very effective way to keep your furniture strong and nourished. Some people find this to be a little oily, but it will feed your furniture without the addition of spray propellants and chemical preservatives.

  • 1/4 cup White distilled vinegar
  • 3/4 cup Olive oil
  • 1/4 teaspoon Natural lemon oil

The shelf life is between six months and one year.

Mix the ingredients together in a bottle with a tight cap. Shake well before dispensing. Shake a small amount on a clean, lint-free rag and apply to furniture. Rub with the grain until you’ve coated the surface well. Allow to rest for 15 minutes or more and rub off the residual oil with a fresh, lint-free cloth.

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Holiday Shine

If you have a cache of grandma’s prized silver that never gets a turn on the table, consider polishing up your prized possessions for the holiday entertaining. Our recipes will make your silver sparkle, without impacting the environment.

Miracle Silver Cleaner

This is a terrific method for cleaning a lot of silver quickly through a simple chemical reaction that removes the dark patina—even from crevices—so it might be unsuitable for intricate designs.

  • 1 large glass, baking pan
  • 1/2 cup baking soda
  • aluminum foil

1. Line the baking pan with aluminum foil.
2. Boil enough water to fill the baking pan.
3. Place the silver to be cleaned in the pan. It’s important that the silver touches the aluminum foil.
4. Distribute 1/2 cup of baking soda over the silver.
5. Completely immerse the silver with the boiling water and soak for about 5 minutes.
6. Rinse and dry the silver.

Silver Polishing Paste

  • 1 cup baking soda
  • 1/4 cup water

1. Place the baking soda in a non-reactive container (glass or plastic). Add 1/4 cup of water and mix well. If this creates a paste that’s too stiff, add more water.
2. Lightly dampen a soft, cotton cloth and work a generous amount of paste onto the surface.
3. Rub the tarnished area, rinse and dry.

Avoid using rubber gloves when cleaning as rubber promotes tarnish. And consider storing your silver pieces in silver cloth or airtight containers to make the next cleaning easier.

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Hand Laundering

The dry cleaning process relies on chemicals that are, in general, not environmentally friendly. They may even stress fine fabrics, stripping away the very oils that make them soft and comfortable. Happily, many clothes that go to the cleaners are good candidates for hand laundering. This can prolong the life of a particularly beloved sweater. *

You will need:

  • 1 Tbls. Moisturizing shampoo
  • Tepid water
  • 2 or more Clean, dry towels

Pre-fill the basin you will be using with tepid water and shampoo. Never run water directly onto wool garments, it can mat the fibers together (felting). Using a gentle or moisturizing shampoo on fine woolens works well because it’s milder than most detergents and is made for hair, which is, after all, what wool started as.

Fight the urge to use too much shampoo. It won’t make the sweater any cleaner and it will be harder to rinse out.

Place the garment in the still water and gently press to submerge thoroughly. Continue pressing gently to lightly agitate the garment. Avoid scrubbing or twisting, as that can damage the garment. Drain the basin and press out as much soapy water as possible.

To rinse repeat the process above using fresh water once or twice until it runs clear.

Lay the garment flat on a clean bath towel. Fold the first end of the towel over the garment and begin rolling the towel up with the garment inside, pressing as you go, to remove any excess water.

Arrange your clean garment on top of a fresh towel in its pre-washed shape. Allow to dry, turning once after a few hours.

*Never hand wash garments that are lined or have a built in structure (like shoulder pads). Leather patches or buttons are not suitable for wet cleaning.

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Scrub-a-dub, no ring in the tub

Abrasive powders and liquids can make short work of the ring around the bathtub, but at what cost? Commercially made scrubbing products are a big help but their strong cleansers are hard on the environment. Our version emulates a popular product but uses earth-friendly ingredients that leave your bathroom clean and your conscience clear.

Silky Scrub

  • 1 cup baking soda
  • 1/2 cup (approximately) liquid soap or detergent
  • 5 to 10 drops antibacterial essential oil (like lavender, tea tree oil, or rosemary) (optional)

Put the baking soda into a medium sized mixing bowl. Add the detergent or liquid soap a little at a time, while stirring continuously. Be careful not to add too much detergent or soap, and discontinue adding after your mixture has begun to resemble frosting. Store in an airtight jar.

Scoop the creamy mixture onto a sponge, scrub the surface, and rinse.

* A castile-based liquid soap is the best ecological choice, as it contains no added ingredients. If your water is hard you may wish to use a detergent. Check out the earth friendly options at your local natural food store.

(Sidebar 1)
It’s always best to use just the amount and strength of cleaner that will get the job done. If you need to add a little power to our Silky Scrub shake a little borax on to the area you’re cleaning. Allow to stand for five minutes then continue scrubbing.

(Sidebar 2)
Borax is a multi-purpose natural cleaner and deodorizer. Keep it handy by putting it in a jar with a shaker top.

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Saving Your Hide

Leather furniture is more popular now than ever before. Its rugged good looks and natural durability are tailor made for today’s active lives. If treated well it’s low maintenance, shedding stains and withstanding abuse.

A good rule of thumb is to expect the same of your furniture as you would a pair of well-loved shoes. All leather will develop scratches from relatively normal wear. For sanity sake consider the scratches beauty marks and know that they will fade a bit with time.

Light Cleaning
When cleaning leather the best approach is to start with light duty cleaning and work your way up. Using a microfiber cloth to dust your leather furniture is a great way to keep soil from building up. The next step is to slightly dampen the microfiber cloth to clean up slightly heavier concentrations of dirt. * 

Stain Removal
If you have a little stain or residue that you can’t seem to remove try four parts warm water to one part vinegar on a clean cloth. Dampen a clean cloth slightly (never saturate leather) and blot the stain. You can up the ratio of vinegar, gradually, to 1:1 if the stain is stubborn. One last home remedy is to use a moisturizing soap with water on clean cloth. Should the stain resist even this attempt you should probably consult a professional.

Leather Conditioner
Hides, like skin, benefit from moisturizing. But even light conditioners can change the look of leather. Always test in an inconspicuous place to decide if the change will suit you.

Linseed oil, from flax seeds, is an old favorite for preserving leather. But the hardware store variety is boiled, causing fumes. It’s also likely to include petroleum products, which are added to decrease drying time.

Leather Lotion

  • 1/4 cup food grade linseed or flax oil (sometimes labeled Omega 3
    1/2 cup white vinegar
    1-2 drops food grade orange oil

Place the ingredients in a glass jar with a lid, cover, and shake before using. Apply with a soft, clean cloth. Rub the mixture on one small area at a time and buff until the surface is dry.

*Always test any cleaning solution in an inconspicuous place to be sure of the effect it will have on your furniture. Never use saddle soap, furniture polish, oil, varnish, abrasive or ammonia based cleansers on leather furniture.

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Ounce of Prevention

Keeping track of the condition of our homes can be a regular part of cleaning. Make a note of the wear and tear that you encounter; paint that is chipped, caulking that is discolored or wood cabinets that could use a nourishing oil treatment. Then set about fixing the problem. Maintenance is, by its very nature, green, because you’re preventing untimely replacements and resource wasting repairs.

Here’s a list of things that warrant checking monthly:
Coils and pans: Vacuum the vents on your refrigerator. Clean coils make for higher efficiency. Check the drain pan for excess water.
Filters and Fans: Check and clean or replace the furnace filter. A dirty filter can impede the flow and quality of your air.  Exhaust fans in the kitchen and bath can get disgusting quickly. Turn off the power before cleaning.
Do the Drains: Regular care can prevent resorting to toxic chemicals to clear drains. You need only pour one cup of baking soda on and around each drain in the house then pour 1/2 cup of white vinegar on top. A half hour later chase the mixture with a cup of boiling water.
Water tight: Check out the grout and caulking in the kitchen and bath. Discolored caulking can be hiding damage. When the waterproof seal is broken structural damage and harmful molds can find a home in the wall.

Check these seasonally:
Check for leaks: Water in the wrong place can create tremendous damage. While you’re looking at your plumbing fixtures remember appliances that have water connections, like dishwashers and ice-making refrigerators.
Just vent: The collected lint in the dryer, hose and exhaust area can obstruct the flow of hot air. Besides creating a fire hazard it can hamper the exit of steam filled air, slowing the drying process.
Well oiled: A drop of oil can ease strain and add longevity to hinges and drawer guides. Avoid vegetable oil and go with mineral oil, which doesn’t turn rancid and is an abundant byproduct of gasoline production. Apply one drop at a time, any excess can drip onto, and potentially damage, other surfaces.
Fresh paint: All paint is subject to wear, especially trim paints that are designed to take the brunt of the damage. Regular touchups can reward in two ways. First, they keep your home looking clean and bright and second they keep the job from getting out of hand. Use up the paint you have on hand. For new projects consider low VOC (volatile organic compound) paint, now widely available. 

Making a little toolkit that contains all of the necessities is a great help. Here’s a checklist for building one for your home. But don’t overload it. If it stays small you can keep it close at hand:

  • Caulking (look for low VOC options, now much improved over the initial offerings)
  • A razor blade tool (for removing old caulk)
  • A small glass jar filled with trim paint (be sure that you mix the paint before you transfer it)
  • A small paint brush
  • A piece of fine or very fine sand paper (for smoothing edges and roughing the surface to be painted)
  • A roll of blue masking tape
  • A small bottle of mineral oil (with an eyedropper)
  • Extra: Small jars of the other paint colors in your home.
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