Articles
Who Eats Where
Portland faces and their favorite dining places
By Ken Hoyt
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David Schiff
Who: For the past 26 years David Schiff has been one of three professors of music at Reed College. He has also developed an ancillary career as a composer.
New Yorkers will be the next to hear his music when on October 18th his piece entitled All About Love will have it’s New York premiere (Chamber Music Northwest gave the composition its Portland opening a year ago). If you can’t make it across the continent you’ll have another opportunity to hear Schiff’s work played by the Seattle Symphony as part of Starbuck’s first classical CD, to be released early next year.
Where he eats: Schiff is crazy about bread, and knowledgeable, too. To adequately judge the breads here in Portland he made a side trip to his favorite bakery in Paris on his way to the airport, “so that it would be the last thing I tasted and I could keep the memory of that flavor when I got home.”
He has three favorites beginning with Fressen, a bakery/vendor at the Hillsdale Farmers Market. Essen is Yiddish and means to eat, fressen means to “pig out” according to Schiff. The next is Pearl Bakery. Schiff has been known to drive across town for their Sicilian Fig Cookie, “which is like the ultimate Fig Newton.”
The top spot goes to Ken’s Artisan Bakery, 338 NW 21st Ave.; 503-248-202, a vote that may be a little swayed by the proximity to Schiff’s wife Judith, who is Cantor at Congregation Beth Israel only a few blocks away.
What he orders: There’s not much that the Schiff’s haven’t tried and enjoyed at Ken’s Artisan Bakery. The bread itself is a favorite, along with “the biggest sandwich I can find.” The newest feature has become Schiffs favorite. Pizza every Monday from 5:30 to 9:30 pm. Being from the Big Apple Schiff figures he’s got a handle on superior pies, including the New York style he grew up on. But even if he claims to love all pizza his preference is for “the thin, elegant crusts and wonderful toppings that Ken’s does that are more along the Italian style. ”
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Niel DePonte
Who: The holiday season is filled with many rituals. For Niel DePonte they include: putting up a fourteen foot Christmas tree, throwing a party or two and conducting the orchestra for Oregon Ballet Theatre’s performances of The Nutcracker. Performing the same score annually for 21 years (about 450 performances) hasn’t become a chore, “I love Tchaikovsky, and The Nutcracker. There isn’t a bad passage [of music] and it’s very engaging because it’s a difficult score.”
The job of conducting for ballet means keeping an eye on the stage as well as the musicians in the pit so that everything stays in sync. This keeps DePonte fully focused because each performance is important. “I like to remember that there is a small child in the audience who is seeing ballet and hearing live music for the first time. We want the experience to be a magic one.”
Where he dines: DePonte comes from a family of educators and cooks, so he comes by his sophisticated tastes naturally, “I like downtown, jacket and tie kinds of restaurants.”
But when it comes to the every day meal he’s drawn to home cooking and a friendly atmosphere. “Right up the street from the ballet [offices] is Zell’s Café, [1300 SE Morrison St., 503-239-0196.] I love it because they serve breakfast late into the day and they always have little scones to go with coffee.” Beyond the pastry and proximity, DePonte is attracted to the familiarity, “It’s a little like the Cheers Bar of breakfast places, where everybody knows your name.’
What he orders: Fresh ingredients and attention to detail are two things that keep DePonte coming back. He often has his standard: a scramble with salmon, chives and scallions. But on special occasions he goes all out with his favorite, “there are only two places in town to get a real Dutch Baby pancake. The version at Zell’s is a little bit denser and is served with a wonderful compote of seasonal fruit. It’s a great dish!”
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Pat Warren
Who: Pat Warren, has been one of our city’s leading fashionistas for decades. She began as one of Portland’s top fashion models (and one of the few mannequins to dress in the best designer fashions). Almost thirty years ago she began Faces Unlimited, 25-7 NW 23rd place, 503-227-7366, which remains an unparalleled resource for skin care products, cosmetics and the latest in hands on treatments.
Warren has built a business on her personal beauty and seemingly endless youth. What could make a longtime glamour girl fall for a moniker that leaves some women cold? The new name is a hip-hop corruption of the classic Grandma Pat. Gram Poo is the invention of her three young grandchildren and Warren wears the name as if it were a jewel.
Where she eats: Warren predated many of her beauty industry associates by understanding that what one puts into the body can count as much as what one puts on it. She’s says that she can see the results of a good diet “in the skin. Skin that’s being well nourished is vibrant and translucent.”
To stay on target with her diet Warren heads for Typhoon, 2310 NW Everett St., 503-243-7557 (plus three other Portland area locations) . Chef/co-owner Bo Kline, uses the fresh seafood and vegetables that are the mainstays of Warren’s diet.
What she orders: Warren discovered Typhoon when it first opened a few years, and locations, back. She was immediately impressed because they offered brown rice, a whole grain, instead of the refined version you see in many restaurants. She changes her orders all of the time, but never passes on protein, “your health depends on it, and it’s hard to get enough if you concentrate on a vegan diet.”
Her favorite few choices: Basil Chicken, “the chicken is stir fried with basil and chilies to a perfect crispiness.” Pinecone Fish, “it’s deep fried, but not greasy, because they do it quickly and at high temperatures.” Papaya Salad, “The dressing is made from lime and garlic with peppers, and it’s perfect with the shredded green papaya and chopped shrimp. It’s a little spicy but that can be good for your system, too!”
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Susannah Mars
Who: Susannah Mars has long been a fixture on the Portland theatre scene. Her passion for performing began only after moving here with her husband, Gary Johnson, eighteen years ago. And no one could have been more delighted than her father, well-known character actor Kenneth Mars (check him on IMDb.com for an “oh, that guy” moment). By the way, that urge to perform seems to have passed to her daughters, Kate and Olivia, who caught her zeal and have even joined her on stage.
Performing at the cabaret at Wilfs Restaurant began another facet of her career. Cabaret requires spontaneity as well as an ease and intimacy with the audience that seems tailor-made for Mars. Last year that resulted in a solo show, “I wanted to do a holiday cabaret… somewhat irreverent, but [one that] touches the heart.”
This year the show has developed into a production at Artist Repertory Theatre, called “Mars on Life: The Holiday Edition.” The show promises not to be traditional. “Growing up my family was Jewish on one side and Catholic on the other and not very religious. So I look at things from the edge. I want the show to speak to all aspects of the holiday season.” The show will include references to winter weather, Christmas, Hanukkah as well as interactive songs and a great gift give-away. It runs December 6th through 31st. For tickets and information phone 503-241-1278 or go online at http://www.artistsrep.org/.
Where she eats: One of Mars’ favorite times to dine out is with her girls right after school. And they all agree that Café Delirium, 308 N Main Street, Gresham, (503) 666-2002 has all of the amenities they look for. “It’s easy to spread out and do a little homework. The people [who work there] are delightful… and the atmosphere is cozy; very homey with comfy sofas and chairs mixed in with the café tables.”
What she orders: The great thing about Café Delirium is we can all get what we want. I love their Chai tea latte and the girls will have a milkshake if it’s hot or a steamer if it’s cold. They make them to order and offer a wide variety of flavors.” The café specializes in panini, “and they make them perfectly crispy on the outside and cheesy on the inside. They have a delicious breakfast version with ham.” The favorite, however, is their chicken noodle soup, “it’s just like homemade, with chunks of chicken and big, thick egg noodles.”
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Chef Pascal Sauton
Who: Chef Pascal Sauton has been a fixture in the world of fine dining in Portland for many years. His career here began in a few notable local restaurants and his groupies dutifully followed. Some say that these eateries were too jealous of his glowing talent to give this star a permanent place to shine. That was then.
These days he and his beloved wife Julie Hunter have invented a lasting home in Carafe, their popular café, 200 SW Market; 503-248-0004. Here Sauton serves the unpretentious fare that a traveler might find in one of the many cafes that dot the streets of his native Paris. No frou-frou, just good food in a comfortable setting.
Where he eats: Restaurant owners put in murderous hours. And couples who own and manage a place have to work at seeing each other. When Julie and Pascal carve out time for a date they go all out and international. But their cuisine hopping only takes them a few feet across the courtyard from Carafe for what Pascal describes as “Portland’s best sushi.”
Restaurant Murata, 200 SW Market; 503-227-0080, is an unassuming space, but if the clientele (think well heeled and Japanese) is any indication this is the real deal.
What he orders: For Pascal it’s all about the sushi. Not your garden-variety-buy-a–tray-at-the-supermarket stuff. He likes it authentic and made in the traditional manner. No to the California rolls and yes to the Sea Urchin.
“Actually I like everything that (chef/owner) Ryoshirou Murata makes;” says Pascal, “He doesn’t speak a word of English, yet he’s successful because his food is excellent. And he makes all of the sushi himself.”
Don’t expect to see a foie gras roll on Pascal’s menu anytime soon. He’s not interested in becoming a sushi chef, “to me making sushi is an art.”
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Barbara Roberts
Who: Dynamic people in every profession find it difficult to put on the brakes in retirement. Some, like former Governor Barbara Roberts, don’t really slow down at all. She jokes that the only difference between her work pre-retirement and now is “there is no money coming in.”
That may soon change as she’s spending some time organizing her memoirs, tentatively named Up the Capitol Steps . “Most of the time it’s fun,” says Roberts, “[yet] difficult to relive the hard times in your life. The balance is to remember the wonderful childhood, the exciting births of children and grand children…. [Reflection] allows you to think about how you became the person you are.”
Part of her constant activity is in Oregon politics. It would be an understatement to say this election delighted her, “I haven’t been this happy [about politics] since I won the governorship. This was really a true blue election and it showed how discerning the Oregon voters are.”
Where she eats: For Roberts, familiarity breeds content. So she’s made a twice-weekly habit of visiting Caprial's Bistro, 7015 SE Milwaukie Ave., (503) 236-6457. “Caprial’s is in my neighborhood. Not only is it close, it’s consistently good; I really enjoy the ambience, very open and friendly. I’ve been going there for a long time. I find it comforting to go to a place where they not only know you but they know what you’re going to order.”
What she orders: “Everything that they make is good and they’ve got a truly remarkable wine list;” extols Roberts,” I like to try new things but I always come back to Hot-As-Hell Chicken .” The dish starts with chicken breast, that’s first grilled then cooked in a chili and cilantro sauce. It’s served on a bed of spicy peanut sauce dressed Chinese noodles. Because of the heat, Roberts cautions, “it goes well with lots of water.”
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Pepe Raphael
Who: It’s been about twenty years since Pepe Raphael arrived in Portland. Back then he was a fresh-faced dancer from Spain here to perform with Oregon Ballet Theatre. These days he heads up Pepe & The Bottle Blondes, a group dedicated to enticing society types onto dance floors with a sexy Latin beat. The group recently released their second CD, Pambrosia. This prompted Raphael to jest, “I’m considering faking my own death. I hear that really helps album sales.”
On October 28th Raphael and his hot little group will join Sasha Scarlett, the Queen of Halloween in hosting the sixth annual Portland Erotic Ball at the Crystal Ballroom. The event is billed as Portland’s Premier Adult Masquerade & Fetish Extravaganza, loosely translated: this trick or treating is strictly for grownups. “This is going to be the biggest year ever, but it’s not for the faint of heart. I’ve even dug up an old costume. White tights! At my age, that really takes guts!” For tickets and more information consult portlanderoticball.com.
Where he eats: “I left (Portland) to go to New York for one year right after 9/11 but I’m back for good. There’s no place like Portland, I’ll end my days here.” As much as he loves his adopted home, memories of Spain still influence his choice for dining. “I like Carafe. It’s very European in feeling. But Ringside Steakhouse, 2165 West Burnside, 503-223-1513, reminds me a lot of Spain. It’s not a place for going out to be seen; the way it’s set up you’re in your own space. It’s pretty intimate.”
What makes it like Spain? “ There the waiters are very professional, they know their business. They display a lot of dignity and they even have resumes.”
What he orders: “I love the scallops for my appetizer… they only serve two. That’s just as well, they’re delicious and I’d overeat. I enjoy the Caesar salad, it’s very traditional and by having it I know that I’m being good.” So what’s the main event? “I love a 12 ounce filet mignon cooked medium rare. And they never fail; it’s always exactly as you hoped it would be.”
A little Latin fuss… “What’s with the onion rings? Before you get a glass of water or a hello they ask if you want a basket of onion rings.”
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Christopher Stowell
Who: Christopher Stowell marks the beginning of his fourth season as Artistic Director of Oregon Ballet Theatre this coming weekend. “This is going to be a very exciting season,” he notes, “starting with George Balanchine’s The Four Temperaments which is both demanding and very exposed.” Stowell considers it as difficult as Swan Lake , but challenging in a different way because it lacks the cover of theatrical devices.
He sees his dancers as more than equal to the job, “The company has grown, and now we’re more of a team. It takes a few years to complete a transformation, but now every member of the company is aware of our goals.”
On a personal note Stowell has come to see Portland as his home, “I started settling in after the second year, I was so busy I didn’t realize that I had become a Portlandite.”
Where he eats: If you’re from a close-knit family it’s expected that you’ll name your brother’s restaurant first. Brother Ethan is chef/owner of Union in Seattle, WA, “since we’re from a foodie family he cooks everything just the way I like it.”
Closer to home he finds himself frequenting clarklewis, 1001 SE Water Ave.; 503-235-2294 , which is “right down the street from work.” The casual vibe and attention to detail are winning combo for Stowell, “I’ll go there for a drink or something more. It’s very comfortable.”
What he orders: “I often skip main courses altogether,” says Stowell, “so the wide variety of starters on the menu is great.” That clarklewis offers Family sized portions works out well, as he likes to go with a group and orders “lots of things to share.”
Stowell loves his food prepared simply and with excellent ingredients: two things he can rely on at clarklewis, “Any restaurant that serves radishes and butter is confident of their food.”
The constantly changing menu fits in another way. His eclectic tastes made it hard for him to select a single menu item. Crostone or bruschetta are favorites here and the wide selection of salads is always appealing, “especially the one served with a soft boiled duck egg.”
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Loren Skogland
Who: Loren Skogland, chef/owner of Milo’s City Café, 1325 NE Broadway, 503-288-6456. Loren and his co-owner/wife Marianne have been pivotal in growth of the NE Broadway dining/shopping district. Milo’s started as the “other” breakfast place up the street from Cadillac Café, but quickly developed a following of their own.
Today Milo’s qualifies as an institution that has expanded beyond its “best breakfast” label. Now they serve three meals a day to a packed house, but even so the famous (and ever-changing) Benedict specials continue to charm the faithful. Last year Milo’s create the Pope Benedict in honor of the new leader of the Catholic Church (it was filled with German sausage and topped with Dijon hollandaise sauce).
Where he eats: Managing a busy restaurant combined with parenting leaves Skogland and his wife little time to sample other restaurants. But when they do they like to check out the hot new places and check up on friendly competitors. More often, however, Skogland has been defaulting to his own neighborhood. “I like supporting our local businesses. When we first opened we depended on them. Even now 50% of our customers are also our neighbors.”
These days he’s checking out the menu at Cha! Cha! Cha! Mexican Taqueria, 2635 NE Broadway St. (503) 288-1045 (plus four other locations).
What he orders: Part of the appeal of Cha! Cha! Cha! is their ability to combine fast service with high quality. “When I’m out running errands I can stop in and get something to go that is delicious and really well made,” says Skogland, “ on top of that it’s very affordable.”
He’s worked his way through most of the menu but lately he’s been sampling the tacos, trying a different combo of fillings with each visit. “As a chef it’s probably not good to admit, but I haven’t worked my way up to trying the tongue.” Me neither.
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Marty Brantley
Who: Marty Brantley is 1. currently helming the art museum while seeking a new director; 2. busy keeping Governor Ted Kulongoski in Salem; 3. lending a hand on the board of the Sisters of Providence. Okay, he’s doing all of them and probably a couple dozen other things. He’s busy.
This would be fine if he were supposed to be punching the clock. He’s had a couple of years to practice a life of leisure since he left broadcasting a few years ago after an admirable thirty year run. Maybe his mistake was answering the phone, but his wife Kay tells him that he’s “flunked retirement.” He’s told her that he’s going to retire again soon, but with his record perhaps he should consider auditing the class.
Where he eats: Brantley likes to kick back in familiar surroundings. This time of the year when the patio is open, nothing holds as much appeal as the Veritable Quandary, 1220 SW 1st Ave; (503) 227-7342. The “VQ” had been darkly glamorous in it’s distant past. But now the combination of its casual atmosphere along with great food has kept the Brantleys returning “for many years.”
What he orders: According to Brantley nobody can make a Caesar salad like chef Annie Cuggino . The secret: staying classic and using excellent ingredients. The extensive wine list makes ordering a glass to accompany dinner easy and enjoyable. To complete his light summer meal he has an order of the Dungeness crab cakes. “They make them perfectly,” says Brantley, “golden and crispy on the outside with a lot of meat and little filler on the inside.” The fruit and cheese plate at VQ is one that real cheese lovers can appreciate. No cheesy cheddar chunks here, these imported cheese are ever changing with each plate featuring a selection of three types, one blue, one soft and one aged.
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Nate McMillan
Who: Nate McMillan is no stranger to Portland or the Northwest. Prior to taking over the job of Head Coach for the Blazers last year he’d been a fixture with the Seattle NBA team for so long that he was given the moniker, Mr. Sonic.
Although McMillan has embraced his new hometown, “Portland is different from Seattle, it doesn’t feel big city; business isn’t the main focus. As a community [it’s] more close knit; Family is very important and people seem genuinely happy.” He also points out that he was looking for a change, and Portland definitely had the pace and lifestyle he sought.
Where he eats: His wife and children will reside in Seattle until this summer, due to school. When they come to Portland full time it will influence his dining habits, “We like to go to casual family friendly places like Benihana and Olive Garden.”
When on his own he likes to go to the Portland branch of a favorite from Seattle days. El Gaucho, 319 SW Broadway Avenue, (The Benson Hotel); 503-227-8794. And it doesn’t hurt that this high-end establishment has long been a favorite of the much-traveled NBA folks.
What he orders: When Coach McMillan goes to El Gaucho he likes a little surf and turf, with a focus on a perfectly prepared New York steak.
However, with the new year (and resolutions) upon us it’s fair to note that McMillan is like most of us. He’s not getting the exercise he’d like to control his weight, “Finding time to work out is difficult. When you’re a pro it’s your job. You have something to train for. Without that goal you have to motivate yourself.”
These days he watches what he eats, sometimes grazing at the salad-centric Sweet Tomatoes and regularly skipping dessert.
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Steve Bass
Who: Steve Bass is new this year as President and CEO of Oregon Public Broadcasting following the long tenure of Maynard Orme who retired at the end of 2005. Bass comes to Portland from a long career in public television that began in financial development before switching to station management over a decade ago.
As one might expect, Bass is a strong advocate for public broadcasting. The strong support that OPB enjoys from its viewers was part of what attracted him to this job.
Bass doesn’t consider himself a foodie but he is quick to note that he, his wife Sara and their two daughters have noticed the impressive differences in the food scene here. “We’ve been visiting the farmers markets and enjoying the produce. My daughters aren’t really crazy about fruits and vegetables, but they have been eating more of them because they’re so fresh and good. That really demonstrates how close to the source we live.”
Where he eats: For Bass dining out is a family affair, with one important provision: youngest daughter Caroline is particularly fond of pancakes, as in craves them. Coming to Portland necessitated the search for a replacement for the Pancake Pantry they left behind in Nashville, Tennessee.
The competition was brutal, and the auditioning process arduous. The Tillamook Ice Creamery is considered an excellent choice for most meals (or snacks). But for straight up breakfast the prize goes to Miller’s Homestead, 17933 SW McEwan Ave., Tigard, 503-684-2831.
What he orders: “ They’ve got a terrific breakfast menu.” But the features for the Bass family are the blueberry pancakes that are stuffed with juicy berries and the tender golden buttermilk pancakes that light enough to soak up lots of syrup. The French toast and cinnamon buns are favorites, as well. Portions? Well, let’s say that they’re out of control. Bass warns that you’ll be happily sated until around suppertime.
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Sam Adams
Who: “I like going to holiday parties,” Commissioner Sam Adams claims, “It gives me a chance to meet new people and get their input. And there are sugary treats and refreshing beverages.” The holiday season presents him with a rare opportunity to entertain family and friends in his cozy Kenton neighborhood home.
This past summer Adams added three new residents at his home - chickens. He maintains, dryly, that he did it for the food, “I really enjoy eggs.” Some may question that assertion. By his own admission the elaborate chicken coop he built turned out to be something more akin to a “poultry chalet.” Although he maintains that the chickens are not really pets he concedes that his investment in their resort-like home has made for some “relatively expensive eggs.”
Where he dines: Adams likes to enjoy a good breakfast near his North Portland home before starting the day. The Nighthawk Cafe and Lounge, 6423 N. Interstate, 503-285-7177, is just the ticket. “It’s not fancy but it’s clean and well maintained and has an inviting atmosphere and lots of regulars.” The front half of the restaurant has counters and booths with a lounge in the back section complete with pool tables.
Adams cites the food as well prepared and a “great value” but goes on to note that one of the biggest features for him is the staff. Most notably the breakfast waitress Nicky, “She has a great, friendly face, and that sends me off with a good start in the morning.”
What he orders: Adams observes that the menu includes such classics as chicken-fried steak, omelets and other well-crafted diner offerings. Still he starts each day with the same breakfast: a bottomless iced tea with half and half and three eggs scrambled soft with diced ham. He tops it off with whole-wheat toast and his deal maker, “this is one of the few places where you can substitute cottage cheese for potatoes.”
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Helen Raptis
Who: Helen Raptis has made an entire career out of helping TV viewers “rise and shine.” Even so she confides, “ I don’t consider myself a morning person.” That said she wouldn’t change a thing, except maybe getting up at 2:45 each morning. But she loves working with the great staff at KATU, “there’s lots of laughing.”
Being a news junkie also helps, “I love to know what’s going on in the state and the whole world.” On top of anchoring the morning news, she also co-hosts AM Northwest, “which keeps me up on trends as well as the latest books and authors.” The job had another payoff. Raptis found romance in the studio (her husband Dave Schmitke) when they both worked at KVAL in Eugene at the beginning of their careers.
Where she eats: Raptis and her husband prefer a low-key life, and enjoy quiet dinners for two. They found a place close to their home overlooking the Columbia that is “cute and cozy.” The Puffin Café, 14 S. A Street, Washougal, WA, 360-335-1522 is small place owned and operated by Jennifer and Robert Guetter.
The floating restaurant affords a perfect view of the marina, “We love the ambiance, watching the boats and the water, it’s like being on vacation.”
The setting is filled with color and has a style like the “Pirates of the Caribbean.” A comforting feel for her, “When I was between the ages of one and eight I lived in Jamaica. So anything with a Caribbean feel has a great deal of appeal for me.”
What she orders: Raptis describes the menu as being like something you’d see in a sunny resort. “Although the restaurant looks very Caribbean the menu has a wide variety of foods.” One favorite is The Half Moon Bay Shrimp Wrap, a flour tortilla, filled with shrimp, coleslaw and sour cream. The real selling point of the wrap, however, is the fresh mango salsa, “Mango is my favorite fruit. It brings back great memories of Jamaica.” If you have room left, “you’ve got to try the deep fried banana for dessert. It comes with chocolate and pineapple sauces for dipping.”
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Randy Leonard
Who: Portland City Commissioner Randy Leonard is no stranger to public service. His first career, as a firefighter, began here in Portland in 1978. Prior to that he attended Irvington Elementary, Grant High School and Portland State. In fact, had he not spent the first two years of his life in Newport, OR he’d qualify for the little used title, “life long Portland resident.”
This summer Leonard has put the final touches on a “modest sixteen foot travel trailer” that he has completely restored on his own. He and his wife Julie have done a few shake out runs including a 3-day jaunt to the State fair. He’s also found time to take a few meetings with one of his favorite constituents, six-year-old grandson, Cole Leonard.
Where he eats: Leonard jokingly credits the source of his appreciation for seafood to “being conceived on the Oregon coast.” Whether or not that theory is true he’s not a big fan of seafood that’s been out of the water more than a day or so. Not generally a problem here in Oregon but he’s discovered an absolutely foolproof option.
Om Seafood, 3514 SE 76th Ave., 503-788-1984 began as a great market with a terrific reputation for seafood. A couple of years ago they expanded to include a restaurant where they just might have the freshest seafood in town. How fresh? It’s swimming in one of the tanks you pass on your way in the door!
What he orders: “Om’s has a complete menu offering chicken and meat as well as seafood,” notes Leonard, “but the fish is really the feature.” The practice of preparing seafood right from the tank is referred to as Hong Kong style, and it’s the very freshness that is the attraction here. Battered and quickly fried Dungeness crabs are Leonard’s preference but the lobster has occasionally caught his eye. If you’re wondering whether he knows his crabs consider this, “My wife and I spent our honeymoon crabbing and eating our way up the Oregon coast.” Now that’s a fan.
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Lynne Greve
Who: For all too brief a time a little bastion dedicated to glamorous living existed on the second floor of swanky Carl Greve Jewelers, 731 SW Morrison St., 503-223-7121 . The dynamic and super-chic doyenne of that operation is Lynne Greve. Although On Two is now a fond memory her taste and charm are still very much in evidence as she continues on at the store as Creative Director.
These days her job includes putting together charity and special events, and arranging for trunk and fashion shows. The rest of her busy calendar is filled with hosting, alongside husband Nick Greve, the many guests that visit the store from out of town. And then there’s the sales part. Honestly it’s not on purpose, but it seems that people can’t help buying whatever jewelry she happens to be wearing.
Where she eats: The Greves spend many evenings in fine restaurants on store related business. So much so that they relish the evenings when Lynne can pop into the kitchen and whip together a quiet meal for two.
It stands to reason that her favorite meal out is one that she can share with Nick. Almost every Sunday they rise, shine then dine. Emanon Cafe, 1000 NW 17th Ave., 503-222-6435 is their frequent destination. “It’s charming, casual and feels, to me, like a beach café, the sort of place where you can feel comfortable wearing a baseball cap.” Another appeal to Greve is the constantly changing display of works by local artists.
What she orders: “Emanon has great food, especially their homemade soups but it’s really known for brunch,” says Lynne. They always start their brunch with a cocktail, “They make a great Bloody Mary and serve them with a side of horseradish.” The main event, however, is the Northwest Scramble, which features lots of garlic, fresh spinach and shitake mushrooms. “They also have the Lovejoy Omelet, with many of the same ingredients, but you can add other delicious vegetables when they’re in season.”
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Jeffrey Stuhr
Who: When it comes to dining as entertainment the stage set or setting can have a big influence on the show. In 1992 interior designer Jeffrey Stuhr set up shop as Holst Architecture with business partner John Holmes. Their first projects were residences, but soon they began to make a name or themselves with the innovative (and highly visible) Pizzacato stores . They became the go to guys for hot restaurants. If you like good food you’ve likely dined in one of their interiors, which include: Oba, Castagna, Bridgeport Brewery and 23Hoyt.
Currently the firm is working on such projects as the 16-story 937 Building in the Pearl along with a generous and diverse group of townhouses. One of their favorite projects is the renovation of Grand Central bowling alley, which will retain some of the feel of the original bowling lanes in a center courtyard, with local stores and restaurants surrounding.
Where he eats: Stuhr loves food and loves to cook, but rarely gets the opportunity these days. His infrequent kitchen visits nearly always coincide with trips to his cabin at Government Camp.
He goes out a lot. when it comes to a special outing his choice of getaways, like his cabin, is just far enough away to feel like a little vacation. Roots Restaurant and Bar, 19215 SE 34th St., Ste 110, 360-260-3001 is just a short drive away in Camas, Washington. Sometimes getting there is half the fun; “I like to drive up the gorge on the Oregon side, maybe stopping for a hike along the way. Then I cross over at the Bridge of the Gods and return on the Washington side on Hwy. 14. By the time I get there I’m already relaxed.” Roots+ Camas=style guy? Sure, “The style is very Northwest Contemporary and there’s a welcoming ambience and a nice buzz.”
What he orders: “Roots has an amazing brunch. But with the drive I more often get there for dinner; which is wonderful. It’s really hard to go wrong on the menu; Brad Root (the owner) is committed to supporting the local farmers and products. He’s got an incredible wine list, too.”
But one menu item continues to capture Stuhr time after time, “I love the avocado and Dungeness crab salad. It’s beautiful, sort of loosely architectural with alternating layers of crab and avocado on a bed of frisee lettuce. And the subtle but strong tarragon dressing brings all of the flavors together. Perfect.”
If you have a little room to spare Stuhr recommends the cobbler, “they make it with whatever fruit is in season and serve it hot from the oven, crispy and golden brown with vanilla ice cream.”
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Rebecca Webb
Who: Rebecca Webb, of KINK FM 102’s Morning Show (5am to 9am Monday thru Friday). In broadcast media the life span of an on air talent is measured in single digit years, if they’re lucky. It’s a rare journalist that racks up decades.
Webb has had a long and diverse career, from reporter to anchor to co-host. Her long stay with Kink was interrupted only to take more Mom-friendly hours as a host on AM Northwest. With her daughter off to college and her son in high school she returned to greeting the morning with Les Sarnoff.
Where she eats: Let’s just say that her son Max wouldn’t allow the information about their already-too-busy-sushi-spot to be declassified. They were persuaded to share their most recent find, a favorite from a different cuisine.
La Calaca Comelona, 2304 SE Belmont St.; 503-239-9675, (the name literally translates The Hungry Skeleton). Webb notes that the name might tip you off that this isn’t your average tacqueria. Day of the Dead décor is the rule here complete with the traditional calacas or skeletons, and artwork by noted Mexican artist Frida Kahlo.
What she orders: As much as she loves the eye-filling and eclectic interior Webb reports that it’s the food that makes this place memorable. She likes to start out her meal with a Tapeche, a drink made of pineapple juice that’s fermented and, reportedly, has a bit of a kick.
“I recommend,” she says, “that you order something with cactus in it. It’s part of what makes the place unique.” Otherwise she loves the seafood dishes. The ceviche features fresh chunks of seafood “cooked” in a highly citric marinade. The shrimp quesadilla combines fresh flavor with homemade tortillas and fresh salsa. No wonder the skeletons were hungry.
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Tom Kooiman
Who: Tom Kooiman, The Cheese Man from Provvista Specialty Foods. Kooiman has always had a fondness for fromage but he earned his moniker piloting the super-chill cheese truck around to Portland’s A-list restaurants and grocers. If you’re an aficionado of high-end cheeses you’ve likely already sampled some of their goods, which are sourced from around the world.
This coming weekend Kooiman will don his host hat as he welcomes visitors from all across the country to Portland for the American Cheese Society’s 23rd annual conference. Nice, yes. But what’s in it for you and me? On Saturday July 22nd you can cross into cheese nirvana with the Festival of Cheese at the Hilton Hotel Ballroom, 921 SW Sixth Avenue (all cq). Over 700 artisan cheeses from around the country will be on display, from the usual suspects like cheddar and blue to the more exotic. Phone 502-583-3783 or visit www.cheesesociety.org for more information.
Where he eats: Dining on one’s own wares would be something of a busman’s holiday. Even the devoted need a break now and again. Kooiman heads for dairy-free dining of Vietnamese cuisine at Pho Van (1919 SE 82nd Ave.; 503-788-5244).
What he orders: Kooiman’s favorites change with the thermometer. In the cool months he prefers a steamy bowl of their Pho, the rice stick noodle soup. Which he claims has healing powers that can help defeat the common cold.
During the warm weather months he enjoys Bánh Xèo, a Vietnamese rice flour crêpe, which is cooler in temperature but still allows him to ratchet up the spicy heat. This crêpe is so large that it’s served on a cafeteria tray along with pork, shrimp, bean and mung sprouts as well as lettuce and mint leaves. One combines these ingredients to make a self styled salad roll. It’s the perfect size for most dinners but if you’re extra hungry you might want add a Bún, or vermicelli noodle bowl.
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Bill Foster
Who: Bill Foster, Director of the Northwest Film Center, a regional organization dedicated to supporting moving image arts through both education and exhibition. Throughout the year there are regular opportunities to catch films that are a trifle too experimental or independent to make it into general distribution. There are also foreign and classic films offered for the rest of us less serious fans. The events that garner the most attention would have to be film festivals the center sponsors. These include the Portland International Film Festival and the Northwest Film and Video Festival.
Curiously Foster never anticipated a career heading up a cultural foundation. “I sort of accidentally got involved at the film center.” His passion for the medium has kept him in happily ensconced for years, “I like making the place work, and there are lots of aspects to deal with outside the big ideas like the festivals.
Where he eats: Where would a cinephile break bread? What Mise en Scene could be appropriately atmospheric? Think of some place that is character driven, As in colorful atmosphere, and a rich history that began almost 40 years ago by one of Portland’s most charismatic individuals.
Bud Clark’s Goose Hollow Inn, 1927 SW Jefferson, 503-228-7010 is the autopilot destination for Foster when he’s taking himself out for a quiet lunch. “I like the ambiance there, and since I go there often the familiarity makes it a comfortable place to unwind.
What he orders: There are any number of sandwiches available at Goose Hollow including a pizza sandwich, a braunschweiger with Swiss and a roast beef on a Kaiser roll. But Goose Hollow’s veteran diners know that this is the self-proclaimed home of the “Best Reuben on the Planet!”
According to Foster there is no reason to dispute that claim. “This is the only place to have them, all other Reubens pale in comparison with this magnificent creation.” He cites the good ingredients as only part of the reason for the perfection. “Correct proportions make all of the difference.”
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Michael Powell
Who: The Powell’s Books that opened in 1971 in pre-Pearl district northwest Portland bears little resemblance to the Powell’s of today. Michael Powell notes, “You can’t underestimate the impact of technology. When we began the only equipment a bookstore required might be a mechanical cash register and a rotary phone. Now a lot of growth is in our internet business.” And the expansion isn’t confined to cyberspace; today there are six stores, including the crowded Beaverton store, which is in the process of doubling in size.
One thing that technology hasn’t changed is the way we like to read. “Books have been around since the Middle Ages. Holding them and reading them is in our DNA. The improvement (in electronic delivery) needs to be one hundred fold, not two fold in order to attract readers away from books. They are a very elegant delivery system.”
Along with growth some other changes are in the offing. Soon Powell’s daughter Emily will be stepping in to guide the store her grandfather Walter Powell built thirty-five years ago.
Where he eats: “Food is one of the great pleasures in life for me.” says Powell, “And I enjoy a huge variety. We’re always trying and supporting new restaurants.” Their recent hunting ground has focused outside of downtown, “there are a lot of exciting things happening, like Tabla (Northeast), Alba (on Capitol Hill) and Vindahlo (Southeast).”
“When my wife and I moved back to Portland in 1979 there weren’t 10 important or ‘good’ restaurants in the city. That’s certainly changed.” Still he sticks with a classic when choosing his favorite, “Fuller’s (136 NW 9th Ave., 503-222-5608) is at the top of my list. I like a restaurant to care what they put on my plate…. I would be very sad if Fuller’s didn’t survive in the Pearl.”
What he orders: Getting away for lunch is a luxury, even the few blocks to Fuller’s, so he looks for a no-fail get away. “(At Fuller’s) I have confidence that they’re always going to serve food that I’ll enjoy. That’s very comforting.”
The comfort theme continues with Powell’s choices: “A hot beef sandwich with mashed potatoes and gravy that didn’t come from a can.” Or “hamburgers with great flavor and lots of mayonnaise.”
“I really don’t do desserts, although I love pie or chocolate cake and good old fashioned ice cream. I like to save up my calories for the main event.”
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Julianne Johnson
Who: It started when Julianne Johnson first sang with the adult choir at her church. She was three years old. Then she performed for 10,000 people at age 6, but by the time she was 9, “I knew [that I would sing professionally]. I was on my way.” Her career first took her to New York City to do musical theatre, then back home to care for an ailing parent. She’s remained in Portland since, performing in theatre, nightclubs and for many years as the lead singer for The Swingline Cubs.
She loves singing all types of music but only recently she felt she came full circle. As the Director of Vocal Performance at PCC Sylvania she’s been teaching a class on gospel music. This holiday season she’ll be sharing her gift at the Old Church with longtime friend and collaborator Michael Allen Harrison along with Patrick Lamb and Katie Harmon. The series runs nightly from this evening, December 15th through Christmas Eve. For tickets and information phone 503-224-8499.
Where she eats: Johnson loves to cook her specialty, long simmering soups with complex flavors. Still she frequently entertains in restaurants for business, as well as pleasure. But that doesn’t mean that she wants formal and fussy. Fratelli, 1230 NW Hoyt St., 503-241-8685 feels like the perfect mix, “It’s not pretentious, but there is an old world elegance.”
“When you go through the door,” Johnson says, “the aromas are so welcoming. You just know that you are going to have a substantially good time.” She notes the “great wine list” and “personal, warm service” as added attractions to this “home away from home.”
What she orders: Everything on the menu appeals to Johnson, “I think that the food is always flavorful and comforting.” Even so one dish stands out, “When I’m on the road all I have to do is think about their Polenta with Wild Mushrooms and my car drives me there.” The fresh mushrooms give the dish its earthy flavor but the real kicker is the sauce, which incorporates chanterelles, shallots, white wine and veal demi-glace. The restaurant calls is mushroom sauce, but Johnson calls it “Seduction Sauce.”
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